Echeveria setosa “Mexican Firecracker”

Echeveria setosa “Mexican Firecracker”

Echeveria setosa “Mexican Firecracker” are small plants; according to their varieties, the maximum size will be 7 to 15 centimeters.

They have a very small stem from which rosette-shaped leaves grow.

The colors of these leaves, depending on the types, can be apple green, teal, dark green, and grayish-green (provided by their hairs).

Echeveria setosa is one of the many echeverias originating in Mexico.

Its red flowers with yellow tips are born on long and thin stems that reach up to 30 cm in height.

Adult plants develop numerous suckers around them, making it easy to propagate this succulent.

Like other varieties of its family such as echeveria victor, subsessilis, or leucotricha; this plant has the incredible ability to accumulate water in every pore.

That is why this hairy plant is very suitable to have inside your house.

It will withstand almost any condition.

You may like: Euphorbia echinus

Echeveria setosa Care

Echeverias are not complicated succulents to grow, as long as you follow some basic rules.

Watering

Excess water is its main weakness. That is why it is necessary to have good irrigation habits. To do this, take into account the temperature you are in.

In winter times, for example, minimize the frequency of watering, only do it when the substrate is completely dry.

In summer and spring, try to water once a week.

Substratum

A suitable soil for these plants would be a mixture of 50% blond peat, 25% coarse sand, and 25% topsoil.

Other mixes you can use is 50% coarse, washed river sand and 50% universal substrate.

Here I leave you other ideas of substrates that you can make yourself.

Idea # 1:

30% of garden sand.

30% coconut fiber.

30% perlite (drain)

10% humus for succulents.

Idea # 2:

2 portion of common land without any aggregates

2 portion of Grow

1 portion earthworm humus or earthworm compound

3 portion vermiculite or perlite

2 portion coarse sand, natural gravel, or coarse sand

1 portion ground coal

1/2 portion diatomaceous earth

Idea # 3

A portion of pine bark

A portion of universal substrate

A part of perlite

Illumination

The echeveria setosa loves very bright spaces with a daily period of direct sunlight.

We recommend that you grow them close to a window or balcony with some protection from the sun, wind, and rain.

If you want to have it outdoors, it is best to place them in an area with great lighting and where they receive a few hours of direct light, either early in the morning or in the afternoon.

In the garden, they are commonly used to fill in complicated spaces for other plants, with little soil or rocky areas.

For indoors, it is best to place them in a well-lit room, preferably near a window or light source that provides a few hours of soft sunlight.

Temperature

The ideal temperature for this succulent is between 21ºC/69.°F and 27ºC/80.°F in the warm months, and make sure the plants avoid temperature below 15ºC/59°F in winter.

In time, it can withstand higher temperatures (although its leaves can burn if they get too intense sun) or much lower temperatures, even light frosts.

These plants can withstand these high levels of temperature, provided it is not for long.

If exposed to intense sun for a long time, the leaves will suffer burns.

Transplant

Like many plants, echeveria will need a transplant every now and then. 

Ideally, do it when spring comes. 

Use a pot large enough so that it can grow freely.

Ideally, you should use a terracotta container and not a plastic one. 

Plastic pots won’t let the soil sweat.

Use a compost for succulent plants mixed with perlite, to make the soil more porous and allow free circulation of irrigation or rainwater.

Put pieces of clay into the pot’s drain hole so that neither the roots nor the soil obstructs it.

Once you’ve transplanted it, water it and, if possible, dip it.

Pruning

The echeveria does not need to be pruned; it will only require that you remove those parts that are in poor condition.

Do succulents need fertilizers?

Although succulents do not require fertilizers, it is always good to add a good fertilizer (especially in the growing season), so that the plant grows better.

If you regularly transplant your succulents and give them a new nutrient-rich substrate, you probably don’t need to add additional fertilizer to your plants.

However, if this is not possible, your plants will greatly benefit from a regular supply of nutrients in the form of fertilizer or fertilizer.

Although succulents can get some of the nutrients they need from the soil; the fertilizer will help them grow more and produce prettier colors.

You should avoid having the fertilizers with a high concentration of chemicals.

But remember, a proper succulent fertilizer used every few months will dramatically improve the development of your succulents.

Best fertilizer for succulents

NPK fertilizer is a fertilizer that contains nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), necessary elements in the soil for plants to develop their tissues.

By choosing the right fertilizer for succulents, you can choose:

Buy a specific fertilizer for succulents and cacti,

Use one of the so-called “universal fertilizers” for ornamental plants and apply it in a lower concentration than indicated on the container, or

choose to make your own natural homemade fertilizer for succulents.

The truth is that there are not many succulent specific fertilizers on the market. That is partly because there is such a diversity of succulents with such different needs that it is difficult to produce a suitable fertilizer.

As a general rule, succulents use nitrogen to create and develop foliage, while phosphorus and potassium help the plant thrive, especially phosphorus.

Propagation

Although they can be multiplied by seeds, this method is quite complicated.

To do it is necessary to place a seedbed with a sandy substrate that will always be kept slightly humid, close to a heat source, and start doing fungicide treatments to avoid fungi.

And still, no matter how much control you have, you cannot be sure that they will germinate.

Therefore, the best option is to multiply by leaf or stem cuttings in spring-summer. 

The way to proceed in any case is the same:

A leaf or stem is separated from the plant.

It is left to dry for a couple of days (up to a week if it is a stem).

And it is planted in pots with universal growing substrate mixed with perlite in equal parts.

In the case of the leaves, these lie down.

Thus, you will begin to see that they prosper more or less after 15 days.